Energy-efficient house – what is it? Is it worth it? Passive house and energy-saving house?



March 22, 2021

An energy-efficient house is an investment for many years. We will discuss this issue in detail in today’s text. After reading it, you will know what issues to take to make your present or future house energy-efficient. It will be a very good introduction or recording of this topic.

The article deals with issues such as:

  • What is an energy-efficient house?

  • Passive and energy-efficient house – what are the differences?

  • Energy-efficient house price – what expenses should be reckoned with?

  • How to use polystyrene, styrodur and mineral wool for this purpose?

  • Energy-efficient house design – what to include in it?

  • and a lot more.

Ready? Now we’ll begin!

What is an energy-efficient house?

An energy-efficient house is a house that has a structure aimed at minimizing energy consumption as much as possible. In terms of specific values, such a building should use less than 70 kWh / m2 per year. In a standard house, it is about 120 kWh.

So it is a decrease of 42%. We will certainly notice this difference when paying the bills.

He treats an energy-efficient house as an investment

When planning to build a house, it is worth considering the benefits of building an energy-efficient house.

Perhaps for many people the costs of the first investments will be high, but after several or several dozen years of using the property, everything looks very promising.

According to specialists, a house built to a high energy standard can bring users savings of up to PLN 250,000 over twenty years.


First of all, when deciding to make an investment, you need to be aware that the costs of building a house should not be counted from the moment of buying a building plot until the house is put into use, but also the entire time of its operation should be taken into account.

Therefore, an investment in a house is a long-term investment. This view gives a completely different picture of the costs incurred.

It’s a bit like cars. So what if we buy a lumber for PLN 2,000, if we spend 5 times as much on repairs at mechanics. Was our car cheap in this case?

Why is it worth it?

First of all, it is saving. Once invested, the money will allow you to spend less for the next several dozen years. We can all see how fast energy prices can rise.

This trend is unlikely to change in the coming years due to renewable energy sources, which are good for the environment but are not the cheapest.

Another issue is various types of funding. If you delve into the subject, it is very possible that you will find a subsidy for this type of investment. It is already visible that more and more European Union countries are trying to strive for the greatest possible climate neutrality.

Ecological house construction is becoming more and more required by all kinds of building standards.

Passive house and energy-saving house?

Many people use these terms interchangeably. However, this is a mistake. An energy-efficient house is built with the aim of minimizing energy consumption.

Passive houses assume the same, plus they are designed to recover and obtain energy (e.g. through solar panels). Their energy consumption should be less than 15 kWh per m2 per year (energy saving 70 kWh per m2 per year)

Every passive house is energy-efficient, but not every energy-efficient house is passive.

The right source of heat

Despite the high requirements and higher investment costs, there are still savings.

However, one more condition must be met – choose an appropriate source of heat that will actually lower your bills with many years of operation.

For example, by choosing alternative energy sources, such as solar collectors or heat pumps, you can save up to 40% compared to standard heating systems. It is a very tempting vision, which is confirmed by the analyzes carried out by the National Energy Conservation Agency (KAPE).

Suitable home design

If we are already determined to build a house to a high energy standard, then it is worth looking for comprehensive projects of energy-efficient houses, thanks to which you can not only get lower maintenance fees, but also a very high comfort of living.

This type of project includes everything that will be the most important in the construction of an energy-saving house.

Exactly, and what will be the most important? We will present you the most important issues now.

Factors influencing the energy efficiency of the house

The size of the house

Let’s start with a fairly obvious feature, which, however, has a huge impact on our bills. This is, of course, about the size of the house. The smaller it is, the easier it is. This is due to the smaller volume required to be heated and the smaller area through which heat will escape.

The shape of the house

The rectangular shape of the house will be much easier to warm than the one built with different roundings, bulges, etc. The results are from a smaller area through which heat can escape.

In addition, the greatest losses occur in various types of corners, angles, IRP corners. It is worth paying attention to this at the design stage. An additional advantage is the lower cost of building such a building (and less error probability).

Roof type

This is somewhat related to the previous point. A flat roof is better because it creates a smaller surface for heat to escape.

In this way, we minimize the volume, number of windows, bends and corners of our house. Unless you really care about the attic, this solution is certainly advisable.

Distribution of rooms in relation to the directions of the world

This is a thing that many people will not think of. InIt’s all about making the most of the heat and light that the sun gives us in our geographic area. In practice, it looks like this:

By placing the living room or dining room (or another room that is used most of the day) from noon, then we will provide it with plenty of sunshine most of the day.

For example, on the north side, it is better to place a dressing room, utility rooms, garage, etc., because it is much less sunny.

As you can easily guess, the sunrise is well sunlit in the morning, at the expense of the evening. Perfect place for a bedroom.

Adequate thermal insulation

It is nowadays an absolute basis when it comes to building an energy-efficient house. Thermal insulation of foundations, basement, walls and attic means the elimination of the most important places through which we can lose heat.

Accuracy and solidity of workmanship are extremely important. Otherwise, thermal bridges will arise in our building, i.e. places through which we lose a lot of heat.

Currently, thermal insulation materials such as polystyrene, styrodur, mineral wool and PUR foams are most often used.

Adequate ventilation

A place that often takes up a lot of heat is ventilation. This is especially true of the classic gravity one. Which is why it is extremely important to purchase a recuperator.

It is a device thanks to which we will recover large amounts of heat generated by us, which we would otherwise send outside.

Adequate airtight windows

A window will always be a place especially exposed to heat loss. Our task is to minimize these losses as much as possible. Firstly, it is worth avoiding very large windows, especially those reaching to the ground.

Secondly, if we choose large windows in a heated room, the losses will be even more visible.

The size and spacing of the windows in the picture above are certainly not energy-saving solutions.

Another point is selecting the appropriate windowsthat let in as little heat as possible. Three-pane windows will be ideal for this. It is also necessary to ensure that they are properly sealed.

No holes

I don’t think this will be a problem for you, but we prefer to mention it. If you have any holes through which heat is escaping, the priority is to fix it. An obvious point, but it’s better to mention it.

Effective fight against thermal bridges

This applies, in a way, to all the previous points. You should go to open war with thermal bridges that is, places through which heat escapes. They must be found and eliminated. Otherwise, our thermal insulation work will be much less effective.

We hope you found our article useful and provided you with a solid portion of knowledge about energy-efficient houses. We also encourage you to visit our online store (upper right corner).


Drainage and use of rainwater



March 16, 2017

Rainwater drainage is a very important issue that determines the protection of walls and foundations against moisture. In this article, you will learn about effective ways to drain the water collected by the gutter system away from your home.


Spray gun – how to use it?




Learn the most important, practical tips on choosing and using a spray gun. We explain how to buy the right model, what nozzle to choose or how to clean the equipment so that the spray guns retain their functionality for years.

What is a spray gun and how does it work

Although a spray gun is used to coat various surfaces with varnish, the most common application is in car painting. Its operation is very easy to understand – it is based on the use of compressed air from a connected compressor, which breaks the paint into small particles, pushing them through the nozzle.

Using a spray gun does not require very advanced skills, although it is definitely worth getting ready for its first use. Only more experienced professionals have practical knowledge of how to effectively clean a spray gun, how to set it, what nozzle to choose and finally what to buy the HP, HVLP or LVLP variant.

HP or HVLP spray gun, or maybe LVLP – which one to choose?

The most popular division of pressure guns includes models:

  • high pressure – HP,
  • low pressure – HVLP,
  • low pressure with low material consumption – LVLP.

HP high pressure guns

High-pressure guns are on sale the longest because they use the oldest known technology. The paint is “fired” by the gun under considerable pressure, although on the minus side, a relatively large spray of paint should be noted, which causes some losses.

HVLP low pressure gun

The working pressure of this gun is lower than the HP due to the greater number of holes. Working with this device turns out to be more efficient because less paint is wasted. The prerequisite for effective work, however, is a connection with a powerful compressor.

Low pressure gun with low consumption of LVLP material

This is by far the most modern tool in the list below. Although a medium-power compressor is sufficient for the operation of this gun, its efficiency is very high, because almost no paint is lost. Thus, LVLP combines the advantages of HP and HVLP.

The choice of one of the three types of pistol discussed above depends on your individual needs and preferences, as well as on the price – the gun itself and the necessary nozzles, which we pay attention to later in the text.

What nozzle for what, i.e. setting the spray gun

“What nozzle for what?” is one of the most frequently asked questions by people who are trying to buy and use a spray gun. The choice is very important as an improperly matched nozzle can cause an undesirable painting effect, and in extreme cases even damage the equipment.

Therefore, in case of any doubts, it is worth consulting the purchase with professionals or store employees.

The main factors to consider are:

  • the type of substrate to be covered with the gun,
  • type of enamel to be sprayed with the gun.

In high-pressure painting of a car body with the HP gun, the following nozzles are used:

  • 1.4 or 1.6 for sleepers,
  • 1.7 or 1.9 for universal varnishes,
  • 1.6 or 1.8 for fillers,
  • from 1.2 to 1.4 for clearcoats and bases.

In low-pressure painting of a car body with the HVLP gun, the following nozzles are used:

  • 1.7 or 1.9 for fillers and primers,
  • 1.3 or 1.4 for bases,
  • from 1.3 to 1.5 for clearcoats and universal varnishes.

A paint spray gun with a lower or upper tank?

One of the criteria for selecting a spray gun is also its construction, namely: the location of the tank. The trays located on the top of the gun are generally smaller, and the paint is directed to the nozzle by gravity, which makes it easier to work with less pressure.

Recommended for painting details. The tanks at the bottom of the gun are usually larger, so they are recommended for covering larger areas. Due to their structure, they require the use of higher pressure to release the paint from the nozzle.

How to clean a spray gun?

Future and current users are also wondering how to clean a spray gun, as it is a reusable device. Keeping it clean is the basis for maintaining functionality in the long term, so from the first use it is worth following the manufacturer’s guidelines and advice from experienced professionals.

There are different “schools” for gun cleaning and maintenance. You can meet both advice indicating the need for very precise washing of each element of the tool, and opinions that it is enough to wipe the main components with a solvent. Where is the truth? As usual – in the middle.

The most important elements that require care this:

  • parts in direct contact with the paint – chamber, needle, cup,
  • the outer surface of the gun on which the paint dust settles.

Be careful when removing and putting on individual elements, as in the process of cleaning them. The paint spray gun can be cleaned manually, e.g. with special brushes or cleaners, but also automatically using professional paint washes.

Thank you for reading our article, we hope you found it helpful. We also invite you to visit our website.


OSB soffit soffit – performance, price, important information!




Find out more about the OSB soffit. Which type of board to choose, does the price matter, and which elements should be kept in mind when planning the work? You can learn all of this in the article below.

OSB soffit – you need it

Before we move on to the advantages of using OSB, the importance of the roof soffit itself should be emphasized. Although it is not a structural element of the building, has a lot of importance for the visual reception, it also has an important protective function. It covers the bottom of the eaves protruding beyond the outline of the building, so the effects of the work you plan to undertake are visible at a glance.

The soffit is installed differently as a roof finish than from the bottom, under the eaves. Mounting from the bottom additionally protects the roof truss and rafters against both sunlight and rain. Another benefit is that this part of the roof is protected against the presence of birds and insects that could nest.

In addition, an insulating layer is created at the junction of the wall and the roof, which plays an aesthetic role, improves the appearance of the roof, and more broadly: the entire building.

Theoretically, it is not a necessary element in a building, but the opinions of experts are unequivocal: it is worth investing in good material and professional execution of the soffit. The most commonly used materials include:

  • wood (e.g. pine, larch),
  • Plastic,
  • sheet metal.

Sheet metal or wood are the most demanding at the assembly stage. A wooden soffit also requires regular cleaning and maintenance to keep its properties. One should also remember about the relatively high cost of assembly resulting from the current situation on the Polish timber market, which affects the availability and prices of the material.

Plastics are very popular among customers because they are easy to install and, at the same time, do not fail in terms of their resistance to adverse external factors. Moreover, they do not need additional maintenance. Therefore, such soffits are popular – both when it comes to PVC and siding models.

In turn, the roof soffit made of OSB combines the advantages of all other possibilities – its aesthetics are similar to wood, it protects the roof well, and at the same time it is relatively cheap and easy to install, which is why many people choose it.

Installation of the OSB soffit – how to do, where to start?

It is enough to follow popular forums for professionals and builders to see that there is no one universal way to make a soffit using OSB. Here are what layers to include:

  • OSB board, e.g. with a thickness of at least 12 mm,
  • polystyrene, e.g. 1 cm thick, glued to the foam,
  • a layer of polystyrene mesh,
  • plaster so that the visual effect coincides with the facade of the house.

The above diagram is just one of many possibilities. Much depends on what your house is finished with, what materials you prefer to use, etc. As always, their price and availability are also very important. So what OSB board for the soffit?

Find the answers to this question on DIY forums or YouTube. Making OSB soffit and other materials is the subject of guide films and online discussions.

It is worth spending time consulting with professionals, because although the works themselves are relatively easy to implement even without very advanced equipment or a lot of experience, it is better not to make mistakes when designing and purchasing materials.

Advantages of OSB

“OSB roof soffit – why not from a different material, if there is so much choice?” – such a question has the right to be asked in the discussion about the headlining. That is why it is worth emphasizing the advantages of the OSB board, explaining how it is built and where it is so popular in the construction industry.

OSB is a composite board with oriented chips, usually obtained from pine or spruce wood. They are bonded by synthetic resin. On the market you can find plates of various thicknesses, porous or smooth, with different edges (e.g. milled).

Unlike solid wood, OSB does not crack, has no knots, and is not susceptible to deformation. It is considered to be an ecological composite material because the synthetic resin used today does not contain, for example, formaldehyde.

What OSB board for the soffit?

OSB boards are divided into four types, categories.

  • OSB 1 – relatively cheap, universal use, but in dry conditions.
  • OSB 2 – used, for example, as load-bearing boards indoors, susceptible to moisture, so they require impregnation.
  • OSB 3 – the most popular, designed for installation even in high humidity. They are resistant due to the use of polyurethane adhesive in the inner layer and melamine urethane resin in the outer layer.
  • OSB 4 – the most durable plate, used in the construction of houses and outside. It works well under mechanical loads and in high humidity conditions.

The OSB 4 soffit is therefore the best choice. Taking into account the current price list of stores, the cost of a square meter of a plate is at least several dozen zlotys.

However, it is worth buying a high-quality slab, since the soffit is to additionally protect the building and increase its aesthetic value.

Thank you for reading our article, we hope you found it useful. We also invite you to visit our website.


Sound insulation of the floor – on joists, in a block and more!




Soundproofing the floor – on joists, wooden ceilings, in block and house – is an important measure to prevent unwanted noise. I am talking primarily about the bothersome sound of steps, as well as any impact sounds.

Find out more about this in our practical guide, where we take into account the differences between the different types of floors, as well as the different sounds that are worth skillfully damping.

Homemade sounds – why is sound insulation of the floor important?

The most common noises in the home related to the soundproofing of the floor result from:

  • steps taken by household members – they are audible primarily within a given room;
  • objects hitting the floor – such sounds are also heard on the lower floor (e.g. in an apartment on the lower floor, if it is a block of flats or a tenement house),
  • conversations or operation of devices (e.g. audio equipment).

Noise is not conducive to relaxation, it is a source of stress and fatigue. In addition, it disturbs the household members and possible neighbors from the lower floor of the building. Thus, the sound insulation of the floor becomes a very important element of construction and renovation works.
Wood, Boards, Texture, Wood

Thanks to the actions taken within its framework, it is possible to minimize unwanted noise and soundproof the rooms “from below”, just like, for example, walls on the neighbors side.

Floor insulation – which one to choose?

One of the recommended ways to insulate the floor in a room is to create a so-called floating floor. Simply put, it consists of an elastic layer and a weighting layer.

This type of soundproofing can be found most often in public buildings, e.g. hospitals, where silence is very important.

In domestic conditions, a slightly simpler solution is enough, i.e. mounting the panels on properly selected anti-vibration mats and underlays. It is believed that even 30% silencing can be achieved with the help of the decks.

Wooden Floor, Curtain, Background

Among the materials used, we can distinguish:

  • XPS – an underlay made of extruded polystyrene, which reduces impact sounds by a dozen or so dB, and at the same time aligns the base well, but unfortunately due to its properties it does not fit under floor heating,
  • PUM – polyurethane-mineral underlay, considered to be very effective in reducing the noise of footsteps, and due to its heat conduction parameters, it is suitable for underfloor heating,
  • PEHD – a high-density polyethylene backing that has universal properties to suppress virtually any type of noise.

Wooden Floor, Curtain, Background

Acoustic insulation of the floor on joists, wooden ceiling

The joist is a wooden element with a square or rectangular cross-section, installed perpendicular to the bearing beams. Remember to attach the joists with felt or rubber pads. This insulation solution is used to soundproof wooden ceilings.

Then, the lower storey of the building holds the suspended ceiling, and a thick layer of mineral wool and a vapor barrier on the underside are installed between the load-bearing beams. It is on the joists that the boards or boards are placed to form the pad. The effect is permanent and, above all, effective in terms of sound insulation.

How to mute the floor?

The acoustic insulation of the floor in a block of flats or a house that we use all the time requires simple and minimally invasive methods. You need methods that are less demanding than mounting on joists or making a floating floor.

One of the proven methods of soundproofing the floor is removing the floor (e.g. removing panels) and placing a soundproofing underlay on the screed layer (we have indicated the most popular and effective materials above). In addition to XPS, PUM and PEHD materials, it is also worth considering:

  • cork and rubber mats,
  • wood-based panels.

Choosing an insulator under the floor is very important also in relation to the assembly itself and renovation works. For example, polyethylene foams are joined with an adhesive tape, while wood-based panels are placed perpendicularly or at an angle of 45 degrees to the arrangement of the panels.

Floor, Wall, Set, Brick, Wood

How to make a good floor acoustic insulation?

  • Check what kind of noises in a specific room require soundproofing.
  • Compare commercially available foams and other materials designed to reduce unwanted noise such as footsteps and impacts.
  • Take into account the type of flooring, as well as the parameters of the ceiling and the entire building (e.g. a single-family house, block of flats).
  • Compare the prices of materials and possible services of professionals, if you want to entrust them with the performance of acoustic insulation of the floor, e.g. on joists.
  • Take advantage of the rich assortment of Mal-Drew’s online store and online warehouse.

From relatively simple work of placing an underlay under the panels, to a floating floor system or insulation on a wooden ceiling – noise reduction involves various costs and activities. Much depends on the building you live in and the desired effect.

It is unchanging that it is worth investing in high-quality materials, the parameters of which mean benefits not only in terms of sound insulation, but also heat conduction and resistance to the influence of unfavorable external factors.

Thank you for reading our article, we hope you found it useful. We also invite you to visit our online store.


Acoustic insulation of the ceiling




The acoustic insulation of the ceiling, e.g. in a block of flats or a suspended one in a tenement house, is an investment of a very pragmatic nature. If you want to effectively reduce the noise coming into and out of your apartment, learn how to carry out step by step works that will reduce unwanted sounds.

Acoustic insulation of the ceiling – why is it worth it?

Flats in blocks of flats, tenement houses or houses are not always refined in terms of acoustics. Standard reinforced concrete ceilings are materials through which sounds pass between individual premises, and this problem is felt in both older and newer buildings.

This issue is rarely thought of at the investment and construction stage – only everyday life within four walls makes you sensitive to noise, which comes overhead.

Too poor acoustic insulation of the ceiling on the one hand and the floors on the other hand causes sounds to penetrate between the flats, including:

  • steps, running and jumping (e.g. for children and people exercising at home),
  • shuffling sliding furniture,
  • falling objects,
  • vacuuming, washing and using other RTV and household appliances,
  • conversations, laughter, all sounds,
  • creaking of the floor.

The lack of intimacy and privacy opens up a long list of negative effects of poor apartment acoustics. Unwanted, loud noises aggravate mood, make you lose your balance, hinder sleep and recovery, and generally have a negative effect on physical and mental health.

In theory, your neighbors could reduce noise in advance, e.g. by using felt pads for furniture, quieter functioning in the house, soundproofing the floor. However, they are not obliged to do so. As long as they do not exceed the norms imposed by law or the internal regulations of the object, you cannot impose anything on them.

In addition, well-made acoustic insulation of the ceiling offers other practical benefits, such as:

  • additional thermal insulation (as a consequence – greater living comfort and lower heating expenses),
  • improved aesthetics of the ceiling, which is exposed, for example, to cracks along the boundary between construction panels.

Terracotta Tiles, Ceiling, Pattern

Is it possible to make acoustic insulation of a suspended ceiling?

Even though your apartment will be a few or a dozen centimeters lower, thanks to the renovation works, you will gain valuable soundproofing. Here are the most commonly used materials to reduce the noise coming from the upper floor:

  • plasterboard,
  • mineral wool,
  • acoustic plate,
  • acoustic polystyrene.

Acoustic boards and polystyrene selected from the offers of leading manufacturers or special variants of mineral wool can be found in the offer of the Mal-Drew online store. The assortment also includes all the necessary tools and accessories for the planned soundproofing works, for example:

  • pins for GK,
  • grouting machines,
  • mortars,
  • tapes,
  • connectors,
  • screws and screwdrivers.

In terms of equipment, the Mal-Drew warehouse and online store meet the expectations of both amateurs and professionals. A careful selection of proven products, as well as a rich supply of individual categories make it much easier to undertake independent or commissioned renovation works.

In one place you order what you need, regardless of the preferred materials and methods of sound insulation or the implementation of the entire suspended ceiling in a block, house or tenement house.

Ceiling, Canopy, Sheet, Wood

Step-by-step soundproofing of the ceiling

The first step is to decide on the choice of the suspended ceiling structure and the material that will be used as a sound insulator. A combination recommended by professionals is, for example, filling with a special, acoustic mineral wool, followed by the installation of a plasterboard or an acoustic panel.

If for some reason you do not want or cannot make a frame and a classic suspended ceiling, you can invest, for example, in an acoustic mat made of polyurethane foam. Then your work comes down to a few steps:

  • attaching the mats to the ceiling using mounting glue,
  • covering the mats with wallpaper, plasterboards or a plaster mesh and putty.

Hybrid acoustic panels are also mounted on the adhesive, which visually bring to mind cork panels. On the acoustic foam layer there is a front panel in the selected color – then such soundproofing does not need to be additionally finished.

Architecture, Church, Religion, Building


Ceiling soundproofing is a decision that leads to a satisfactory dampening of unwanted sounds. The trick is to choose the right material and remember that its thickness will have a direct impact on the lowering of the room. While in a tenement house or a single-family house it is usually not a problem, in a block of flats even a few centimeters sometimes make a big difference.

Also, don’t forget to compare the acoustic properties of individual products. Take into account thermal insulation parameters and quality factors. A large selection of proven materials for acoustic ceiling insulation can be found in the Mal-Drew online store.

If, on the other hand, you do not have the time or the opportunity to carry out soundproofing and suspended ceiling works yourself, entrust them to experienced professionals.

Thank you for reading this article, we hope you found it useful. We also invite you to visit our online store.


How to renew the mortar clinker after grouting?




Clinker is a building material that has been used for years, and the fashion for its use in private and public buildings is not going away. That is why it is worth knowing how to take care of it and, if necessary, restore it to obtain an aesthetic and lasting effect.

In this article you will learn, among others:

  • how to renew clinker,
  • how to clean it from the mortar after grouting,
  • how to clean and maintain it in order to maintain its original appearance and properties for a long time.

We invite you to read and check the methods we recommend.

Brick, Facade, Clinker, House Wall

What exactly is clinker?

To know how to effectively clean or restore clinker, you should get to know this material thoroughly. Simply put, it is a ceramic, sintered material with an unglazed surface. In this respect, it differs from other ceramics, but – like the others – they are made of clay.

Over the years, or rather centuries, the clinker production technology has significantly modernized. Today’s material is created relatively quickly and efficiently, and its technical parameters and properties (including frost resistance) are much better than several hundred years ago.

FROM of clinker, roof tiles, tiles, bricks and paving are made. They are widely used in construction, especially since, apart from frost, they are also perfectly protected against the negative effects of chemical factors. Clinker also shows considerable resistance to abrasion.

It is recognized as a material with good thermal and sound insulation parameters. In addition, a significant advantage of the material is its eco-friendliness.

No plastics are used to produce clinker – skilful processing of clay and sand is enough.

Facade, Clinker, Tile, Tile, Background

Why is it worth knowing how to clean and restore clinker?

Only clinker bricks are used to build buildings, chimneys, fireplaces or fences. And yet clinker is also used, among others in the form of facade tiles.

It has a practical application, but also plays a very important role in terms of construction, so you need to know how to maintain its best properties and at the same time enjoy good aesthetics over many years.

Wall, Brick, Facade, Disguise

How to clean clinker – is it necessary?

Bricks or clinker tiles have gained popularity also due to the fact that that they are not very troublesome in operation. Often, heavy rainfall is enough for the surface of the fence or clinker facade to be self-cleaning.

If you still see unwanted dirt on it, just use a water jet from a garden hose or a pressure washer. Of course, some of the sediments are more difficult to remove, but there are proven ways to do so.

Brick Wall, Bricks, Clinker, Wall

Brush – how to clean clinker?

The aforementioned pressure washer is a good way to remove more persistent, “stubborn” dirt, although it is best to use a special nozzle or a brush attachment.

Too hard, rough brush, however, is a threat to the ceramic coating, which can be scratched in this way. High-pressure washing should also be avoided when joints are brittle (e.g. in older, dilapidated buildings).

Bricks, Wall, Red Clinker

Clinker maintenance and impregnation

Clinker bricks and tiles with water absorption less than 6% should be properly protected against moisture, which may accelerate the deterioration of the material by biological processes taking place in its micropores. There is no shortage of specialized preparations on the market, thanks to which you will protect clinker against moisture and discoloration.

The impregnation of the material also helps to prevent it from sticking too much dirt, so knowing how to clean clinker is then a little less useful.

Tiles or bricks should be covered with chemicals with vapor-permeable properties. The preparations work up to several years, and before using one of them, you should read the exact guidelines and information provided by the manufacturer.

Among the products that you can easily order, e.g. online, there are also those that increase the intensity of the color and texture of the clinker. It is worth using them especially on material exposed to rainfall.

Other dirt

Clinker-covered surfaces, e.g. building facades, are also exposed to salt efflorescence and lime moss. In both cases, you also need to buy and apply special chemical preparations. Biological corrosion is influenced by means for dilution with water according to the indicated proportions or ready-made plates with an atomizer for convenient distribution.

Manufacturers leave detailed guidelines on how to use the products, so make sure whether the preparation needs to be rinsed off after a few days or reused as a protection against recurrence of efflorescence.

To get rid of the abovementioned salt efflorescence, for example, an acid-based preparation is used, which is spread on a dry surface and then thoroughly rinsed with water.

Facade, Clinker, Tile, Tile, Background

How to clean the clinker after grouting

The aforementioned lime efflorescence is a stain resulting from the application of cladding with a lime-based mortar. To remove unwanted grouting marks, remove them with a professional clinker cleaner.

Sometimes pressurized water is enough some also reach for a solution of water with vinegar and perform polishing with a felt attachment on a drill. As you can see, there are different methods used by professionals. If in doubt, it is better to consult with specialists in the field of clinker application and maintenance on the selection of the appropriate method.

Buying the right chemicals should solve the problem, but the key is to follow the manufacturer’s guidelines.

How to renew clinker

There is no universal answer to the question of how to restore clinker, because it all depends on the actual condition of a particular surface. For example, the clinker facade of some old buildings should be simply plastered over.

It is also necessary to supplement the missing bricks or tiles. The smallest scope of work is in a situation where it is enough to thoroughly clean the old clinker according to the rules already described.

One thing is certain – clinker has many desirable properties, but in order to maintain its aesthetics, it is worth investing in impregnation and care, as well as taking care of its appearance and durability on an ongoing basis.


How to grout clinker? Check out our tips!




The question of how to grout clinker is fully justified, because in practice the work is slightly different than when finishing the facade or wall with standard ceramic tiles. Before you watch the movie or contact the experts, read our guide in which we explain how to do it correctly, effectively and aesthetically.

How to grout a wedge – basic information

If you know how ceramic or porcelain tiles are grouted, grouting clinker should not be a particularly complicated challenge for you.

Nevertheless, the differences are already noticed at the stage of selecting materials and tools, and in the course of the work you will also notice that the practice is a bit different. This is due to a simple fact – clinker tiles are different from porcelain and ceramic tiles, and they can also be grouted using two methods.

Lack of experience is not a special obstacle, although if you care about time or are worried about the visual effect, you will find many specialists on the local market who will undertake this type of order.

Despite this, many people wonder how to grout clinker on their own – for their own satisfaction and undoubted savings, it is a good choice.

This guide will help you to carry out the work step by step. Your goal is to achieve an aesthetic and durable result – just like the clinker itself has the opinion of a nice and solid finishing material.

It is important because it is suitable both for covering surfaces inside buildings and outside, as their facade. In both cases, the assumptions are the same – the grouting must be carried out precisely and in accordance with the guidelines of the manufacturers of the materials you use.

Before we move on to discussing the work step by step, let’s prepare a list of necessary purchases together. Fortunately, the access to materials and tools is wide, and their use does not pose any additional problems and is relatively easy, even for beginner DIY enthusiasts.

Facade, Clinker, Disguise, Stone

What to grout clinker – a list of necessary tools and materials

Although in theory you can reach for a universal grout, it is not a good choice. It is much better to invest in a special clinker grout, produced for pointing tiles of this particular type.

Moreover, such mortars are easy to use, because their manufacturers explain precisely what proportions with water to use to achieve the desired effect.

The grouting itself can be done with various tools, and their selection depends on individual preferences, and above all the specificity of the surface that requires finishing. For small and quick works, a “grout” – a grouting trowel – or possibly a well-chosen spatula should be sufficient.

In larger spaces, activities are carried out more efficiently with the use of a sleeve or a grouting gun. Among other tools that facilitate grouting, experts mention a trowel for vertical and horizontal joints, a special joint for grouting or a masonry string to maintain the necessary precision.

Let us emphasize the importance of order during the work. Prepare a container for the mortar or a brush and a sponge to clean the surface. Finally, you also need a grout scraper or an optimally matched brush.

Facade, Clinker, Tile, Background, Template

Summarizing this thread, here is a list of the necessary materials, accessories and tools for clinker grouting:

  • clinker grout,
  • putty knife, float, sleeve or grouting gun,
  • brickwork string,
  • grouting tray,
  • trowel for horizontal and vertical joints,
  • brush and sponge,
  • grout scraper.

Clinker grouts and mortars, as well as practical tools and accessories can be found in the assortment of the Mal-Drew online store. Order them at an attractive price and be sure that they are properly selected, high-quality products that you need during the planned work.

When to start work and which method to choose?

Suppose you already have the necessary materials and tools, and the clinker tiles are on the surface. Do not rush! Approximately 7-14 days must pass from the moment the façade or internal walls are covered, before you start pointing. Make sure that the entire surface is protected against getting wet during this time.

Already at the purchasing stage, pay attention to the quality of products. The visual effect and surface strength are influenced by both the standard of the clinker tiles themselves and the selected grout.

It’s time to go on to explain how to grout clinker. There are basically two methods:

  • dry (or semi-dry), which consists in preparing a thick mortar using a small amount of water,
  • wet (or “slurry”), which consists in making a thin mortar with a lot of water.

Dry grouting of clinker is a bit more difficult and time-consuming due to the issue of spreading the thick mortar, but the result is extremely aesthetic. In turn, “slurry” speeds up the work, because thin mortar easily fills the joints.

However, the downside is that rough clinker tiles cannot be grouted when wet, to the structures of which such a thin mass could get into. In other words, slurry is only possible in the case of smooth, tight clinker, e.g. glazed or glazed.

Brick Wall, Clinker Bricks

Necessary information – how to grout clinker

Are you looking for information on how to grout clinker, so we encourage you to carefully read our advice, which we have collected below. Here are the best practices and mistakes to avoid.

An important issue is the width of the joint between the clinker tiles, which, according to experts, should be at least 10 mm, which is more than is practiced when finishing surfaces with standard ceramic tiles.

The grout must touch the mortar, which is why it is so important to place it precisely in the joint, therefore professionals use sleeves, guns or grouting. At the same time, let the applied mass slightly protrude behind the cladding.
Facade, Clinker, Tile, Tile, Background

Start with vertical joints, then deal with the horizontal ones. Use the aforementioned tray to press against the filled joints, then collect the excess and even out the applied material.

The key is firm pressing and precise smoothing. Mistakes made at this stage result in visible inequalities that spoil the visual effect. To clean the clinker after the works, it is enough to use a soft brush – but make sure that all movements are gentle so that the grout does not stick to the bristles.

Facade, Clinker, Tile, Tile, Background

Clinker grouting – what else is worth knowing?

  • Detailed guidelines for the operation of the grout can be found in the description of a specific mortar.
  • Clinker joints are available in various colors – e.g. gray or brown. This gives the possibility of an aesthetic finish in terms of color and style of selected tiles.
  • Experts usually recommend a dry (or semi-dry) method.
  • The work ends with the binding of the grout. The pace of this process depends, among others from external factors, especially when it comes to the external facade of the building exposed to weather conditions.
  • For cleaning the clinker grout and the tiles themselves, you can use, among others specialized preparations available on the market. Remember to regularly care for and maintain the material in order not to deteriorate the appearance and durability of the surface.
  • A very important moment in the works is collecting the excess grout and leveling it. Smoothing will not be possible after the joint mortar has hardened.
  • We recommend avoiding apparent savings, e.g. by purchasing a universal grout or using tools other than those recommended by professionals. Low-quality materials or practical errors during work will force you to much faster, and thus more expensive corrections and additional, unnecessary activities.

Facade, Clinker, Tile, Background, Template

Let’s move on to the summary. You already know how to grout clinker, perhaps you will no longer need an additional video or guide, although we always encourage you to collect as much practical knowledge as possible.

Remember that using materials and tools from the Mal-Drew online store, step-by-step works bring an aesthetic and durable, i.e. the desired effect. Good luck!

Thank you for reading our article, we hope you find it useful. We also invite you to visit our online store.


How to protect the OSB board against water?




Due to the price and properties, OSB is one of the most popular materials used in construction. In various buildings, it is used for erecting walls, floors and roofs.

However, it is extremely important to know how to protect the OSB board against water. Additional protection against moisture and unfavorable weather conditions is the basis for finishing works required by the material of interest to us in this guide.

Select the appropriate type of plate

Let’s start with the fact that already at the stage of purchasing the materials, you should consider how to protect the OSB board against water. In order to provide yourself with more effective protection against the effects of moisture, the right step is to consciously choose the appropriate type of OSB.

The markings make it easy to recognize panels that are more or less protected against water. The differences depend on the proportion of the components of the wood-based material, which is OSB (Oriented Stand Boards).

The right combination of shavings, resins and glue provides better or worse protection against moisture.

  • OSB 1 – a board with poor moisture resistance, used only indoors.
  • OSB 2 – a board similar to OSB 1, also poorly resistant to moisture, but recommended for example as a partition wall.
  • OSB 3 – a board containing melamine-urethane resin (PMUF) and polyurethane adhesive (PMDI), very popular for its resistance to moisture and general strength. Used to install floors and ceilings.
  • OSB 4 – a board similar to OSB 3 in terms of resistance to moisture and mechanical damage. Used on roofs and outdoors, e.g. for furniture and garden sheds.

If you choose OSB type 3 or 4, it is still worth knowing how to protect the OSB board against water, but you can at least be sure that the material properties themselves are in line with your expectations.

Builder, Master, Construction, Carcass

Where to protect the OSB board against moisture?

Knowledge of how to protect the OSB board against water is useful in virtually every room, especially outside buildings.

Particular protection should be given to boards located in rooms with increased humidity (bathrooms, kitchens, laundries, etc.) or exposed directly to the effects of atmospheric factors: rainfall and ultraviolet radiation.

The basic method of securing the OSB board is painting it after prior impregnation. As a result, the surface is protected against the harmful effects of moisture, and its attractive appearance remains for a long time, especially when you apply a double coat of paint. Below we present practical advice on impregnating and painting OSB boards.

Principles of securing OSB on the roof, floor and wall

If you use the OSB board to make a roof, protection against the effects of precipitation or air humidity is the basic activity to preserve the properties of the material. It’s best to find a sunny day with moderate temperatures.

Clean the plate of grease or organic stains, fill in any unevenness and reach for the primer. Only after priming the board, which we write about later in the article, should you use the paint (for external painting). OSB boards with a large surface are most conveniently painted with a roller – it is good to lead it from the edge, from the top.

If the OSB board is used to make the building’s floor, the principles of impregnation or painting are very similar. However, it is important to choose a special, mechanically resistant paint for the floor panels. Always remember to thoroughly clean, vacuum or degrease plates, including wall plates.

House, structure, real estate, concept

Protecting OSB boards against water – selection of paints and other preparations

There are several different preparations available on the market recommended for coating OSB boards. Which one to use to effectively protect the OSB board against water? There is no clear answer to this question, because it all depends on its type or the way and location of its use. Here are some practical tips.

  • Chemically hardening paints have properties similar to those of resin, therefore they are recommended for painting OSB boards.
  • Acrylic paint with good adhesion and resistance to washing is a good idea for covering OSB with color.
  • Linseed varnish or putty oil paint are recommended impregnating agents if the OSB board is to be decorated with emulsion paint.
  • The basic method of protecting the OSB board against water and other external factors is the use of a colorless varnish for wood and wood-based products.
  • It is also worth considering the purchase of a paint combined with an impregnation, which effectively protects the OSB board against mold, ultraviolet radiation or moisture.

Roof truss, entablature, architecture

Is OSB the right choice?

Improper storage of OSB boards, resulting in direct contact with water and moisture, results in the appearance of fungi, mold and harmful microorganisms on their surface.

Similarly, after installing the panels, unwanted damage to the wood-based material may occur – which you certainly want to avoid. Therefore, we recommend using proven impregnating agents and the proper selection of paints (and painting techniques) so that the effect is both durable and aesthetic.

Knowing that you need to protect the OSB board against water should not discourage you from using this material. In construction, many other materials are used that also need to be protected against moisture. Thus, impregnation or painting are standard activities that do not expose them to particularly high effort or cost.

In order to prevent the development of fungi or mold, it is worth making a decision about OSB type 3 or 4 at the stage of purchasing. A large selection of OSB boards at an attractive price, directly from reputable and respected manufacturers, can be found at Choose our online store for an attractive price list and a wide selection of building materials as well as practical accessories and accessories.

OSB has many advantages – lightness, price, universal use. Protect the material against water to enjoy its properties for many years to come!

Thank you for reading the article, we hope you found it useful, please visit our online store.


How to make up wallpaper glue?




Wallpapers – as decoration of interior walls – remain an interesting alternative to paints. In this article, we explain how to mix wallpaper glue. This is an opportunity to share some other, equally practical tips, for example, how to remove it from the walls, or when it is already broken, whether it can be stored in this form. If you are preparing for renovation or finishing works, check how to properly perform the most important wallpaper elements.

What wallpaper glue – choose the right one

Knowing which wallpaper glue to choose is very important. High product quality and proper use are the basis for an attractive visual effect and durability. However, before we move on to the thread in which we describe in detail step by step how to dissolve the glue correctly, you need to know that wallpapers are divided into:

  • paper,
  • vinyl,
  • latex,
  • fleece,
  • fiberglass.

You can order wallpapers made of high-quality materials, adhesives or the necessary tools and accessories at the online construction wholesaler Mal-Drew.

What kind of glue for paper wallpapers?

Paper wallpapers are divided into thinner and thicker, which is the starting point for the selection and preparation of glue. As a rule, it should have a relatively thin consistency.

Background, Red, Texture, Abstract

What adhesive for vinyl wallpaper?

A very popular variant of wallpaper are vinyl models, which, like paper ones, may differ in thickness and hardness. The thicker it is, the thicker the glue should be.

What glue for latex wallpaper?

Latex wallpapers include many visually attractive photo wallpapers, which, compared to the paper versions, are much more durable. Following this lead, the consistency of the glue should also be thicker than on paper wallpapers.

What glue for fizolin wallpapers?

Non-woven wallpapers are distinguished by a synthetic non-woven base, and their structure requires a slightly different gluing than usual. Instead of applying glue to the fabric, spread it over the wall. The consistency should be thick, which is achieved by not thinning.

What glue for fiberglass wallpaper?

When asked what glue to choose for fiberglass wallpapers, the answer is: special !. Don’t worry: you get the exact guidelines from the manufacturer of a specific wallpaper, so finding glue shouldn’t be too much of a problem.

How to make wallpaper glue – proportions

The above tips were necessary to get to the basic question: how to mix wallpaper glue? The proportions depend entirely on the type of glue and wallpaper. You will always find the exact guidelines on the product you buy before you start wallpapering.

The proportions are sometimes indicated by doses, other times the package contains a precisely measured amount per liter of water. Therefore, you do not need to know the “universal rule”, because there is no such thing in practice. Choose the right wallpaper, choose the glue under it, and read from the packaging what proportions will be the best, so that the substance provides good bond and durability for many years.

Wall, Texture, Wood, Pattern, Deposit

How long can you keep mixed wallpaper glue?

You will probably find information on how long you can keep mixed wallpaper glue on the product packaging. The most important thing is the tightness of the package, but even then, the mix can be used for several days.

Later it can dry out, mold appears on its surface and loses its bonding properties.

The conclusion is obvious: in order not to waste money, buy as much glue as you need with a minimum margin, especially if you have experience with wallpapering and know how to do it without rework.

Room, Empty, Inner Space

How do I remove wallpaper glue?

If you plan to decorate walls that already have old wallpaper, remove it. The easiest way to do this is to soak it with warm water, e.g. with a roller.

Old wallpaper with weakened adhesive should come off in whole sheets, and if not, the remains should be scraped off or a specialized preparation should be used.

Before starting the works, we recommend filling the defects in the wall, cleaning it thoroughly, drying it and priming it. Then the chance that properly mixed glue will strongly bind the wallpaper to the wall increases.

Thank you for reading the article, we hope you found it useful, please visit our online store.


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